Car Profile
She’s orange and cute. It’s Fanta GTI.
- Stage 2+ (93 octane map) Unitronic – 385bhp
- FWD – 4 cylinder 2.0L TSI EA888
- 2016 5 door Autobahn trim (non-pp)
- Original color: Carbon Grey Steel (GTI exclusive)
- Current color: 3M Glossy Burnt Orange (vinyl wrap)
- IS38 full-bolt circuit spec
Modifications/Parts List
Suspension//Chassis//Aero
Performance
- Coil Overs: Ohlins Road and Track
- Previously: Eibach Pro Kit Lowering Springs
- Front Sway Bar:
- Rear Sway Bar: Eibach
- Camber Plates: Super Pro TRC 5000
- Strut Brace: Euro Sport Upper Front Stress Bar
- Chassis Brace: Euro Sport X-Brace
- Skid Plate: ECS Street Shield Aluminum Skid Plate
- Chassis Mounted Rear Diffuser: WCT (custom kit)
Safety Components
- Schroth QuickFit Pro 4 Point Harness
Cosmetical
- Exhaust: Stock Catback W/ 3″ BMS Tips (black)
- Folding Mirrors
- Tail Lights: MK7.5 Euro Tails
- Badging: OEM MK8
- Tow Hook Plate Mount: Rho-Plate V2
- Vinyl Wrap: 3M Burnt Orange (body panels) // 3M Metallic Black (roof)
Brakes//Wheels
Front
- Front Calipers: BBK – Neo Motorosport F500 – 6 piston (aluminium block)
- Front Pads: Neo Motorsport – P1 (track pads)
- Front Rotors: Neo Motorsport 356mm j-hook slotted//vented (two piece)
Rear
- Rear Calipers: Stock non-PP
- Rear Pads: EBC Yellow Stuff
- Rear Rotors: Stoptech slotted//vented (one piece)
Wheels
- Currently
- Daily/Track – GT Advans 18″ with AD08R
- Previously
- Daily: Yokohama ADVAN NEOVA® AD08R w/ FlowForm Super Speed RF05RR 18×8.5 +45 offset- 18.8 lbs
- Previously used: Vitour Tempesta Enzo (also tracked)
- Track: Nankang AR-1 w/Enkei TX05 18×8.5
Engine//ECU
- Tune: Stage 2 Unitronic
- Downpipe: 3″ CTS High Flow Cat
- Intercooler: Unitronic
- Radiator: Stock
- Spark Plugs: Audi RS3 (lower temp)
- Coil Packs: Audi RS3
- Catch Can: USP Billet Spulen Spherical Catch Can
- Oil Filter Housing: USP Cool Flow Aluminum Oil Filter Housing
Upgrade Path
Future Upgrade Path
- Aluminum subframe
- Aluminum lower control arms (LCA) – planning to go super pro
- Front sway bar
- Dead set kit
- Engine and Transmission mounts (stage 1/2)
- Turbo Upgrade (likely IS38) –> IE Stage 2+
- Vented Front Caliper Air Ducts
- Vented front quarter panels
- Upgraded Neo Motorosport R400 rear calipers w/matching pads/2 pc rotor
- A big wang (because why not)
- Rocket bunny (once she’s fully track dedicated)
Upgrade Path Recommendations
The question I get on the occasion is: “If you had to start all over again, what would you have done differently?”
It’s interesting because this car has pretty wide modifications list and it really depends on the application. Whether you intend to track it or have a casual sporty daily, you can go OEM+ or all out race car. Options are just shy of endless, below are a few upgrade paths I’d suggest if you are looking for a upgrade path. Feel free to pick and choose your own setup that makes sense to you.
Performance Based
Engine Tune
- Unitronic Stage 1 (for 87 octane) +50hp
- Unitronic Stage 1+ (with 91 octane) +80hp
- ***No modifications to engine/exhaust components required up to Stage 1+)***
- This is what the the car should have been out of the factory
- Unitronic Stage 2 (with 93 octane) + 110-120hp
- Stage 2 requires downpipe (high flow cat // non cat)
- Other recommendations: upgraded intake, intercooler to increase airflow and cooling the air
- This is the nice balance of power/sound and is still good daily driver
- Unitronic Stage 2+ (with 93 octane) +175hp
- Stage 2+ requires modifications from stage 2 and upgraded IS38 turbo kit
- I’ll be switching to Integrated Engineering when I go 2+ for a number of reasons. I started with Unitronic because they have the best customer support/most widely used OTS tune on the market. Also the most conservative tune. No instances of engine detonating.
- Other OTS options:
- APR
- Integrated Engineering
- JB4 (piggy back mod with customizable mapping) —> doesn’t mess with ECU, good alt if you don’t want to void warranty and flag TD1. Module can be removed and resold anytime.
For DSG Bretheren
- High recommended to do a DSG upgrade otherwise you’ll start seeing clutch slip, especially at stage 2
- Also fixes the crappy OEM sport mod rev hangs and eco automatic drive modes.
- Only downside to DSG tune is it does reduce/eliminate the DSG farts you might love on up shift.
For Manual Heathens
- Will need a Southbend Stage 2 clutch or you’ll have fun in clutch slip wonderland. From what I heard, its absolutely necessary.
- If you are spending money to pop the transmission and have extra dough to spare, especially if you are going to drive her hard and or go to track/strip and haven’t already got the diff then throw in a Wavetrac dif now!
Track Based
You got quite a bit of options. I’ll break it down by increasing number of modifications:
- Level 1
- Upgrade Brakes and Tires
- Level 2
- Catch can install, Stainless steel brake lines, more aggressive brake setup (track dedicated), dedicated track tires (TW 80 and under)
- Smoke screening your fellow track mates in every corner? CATCH CAN INSTALL IS A MUST
- Under heavy braking/cornering your PCV system is doing a sucky job. Get a catch can that is baffled.
- Catch can install, Stainless steel brake lines, more aggressive brake setup (track dedicated), dedicated track tires (TW 80 and under)
- Level 3
- Get a big brake kit (BBK)
- Camber plates/camber mounts
- Coil overs/lowering springs
- Rear Sway bar (for GTI)
- Level 4
- Chassis brace
- Strut brace
- Deadkit set + dog bone (pendulum) mount
- Engine mount
- Transmission mount
- Upgraded lower control arms
- Might as well go aluminum subframe upgrade + front sway bar as you’ll be accessing these components
- Level 5
- Aero modifications
- Front splitter (ideally chassis mounted – you should be able to stand on it. No ebay/Alibab glue on crap)
- Rear diffuser (same as above no glue on crap)
- Big wang (chassis mounted adjustable spoiler)
- Aero modifications
Cosmetic Based
Toggle Content goes here
Exhaust Modifications
OEM+ Sound
- ($$) Do high flow downpipe (with cat) + stock cat back exhaust (incl. resonator and muffler) or;
- ($$$) Keep stock downpipe + upgraded after market cat back exhaust (honestly doesn’t matter which one, there are some differences in sound but what really is most different between the types of exhausts are based on how deep your wallet runs for a metal pipe. Seriously).
- ($) Keep stock downpipe + resonator delete (keep stock muffler/briefcase)
- Kai’s suggestion: I get a lot of praise with Option 1 (my current setup) and if not loud enough do resonator delete. Don’t delete muffler, ask me why.
- Optional: Run exhaust tips, you’ll get the OEM+ sound with exhaust tips to match with option to tune up to stage 2 onwards.
Turn Down For What Sound
- ($$$$$) Run catted/non catted downpipe + cat back aftermarket exhaust – It’s loud and sounds marginally better than below but most expensive route.
- ($) Full Out Race Kar – Straight Pipe throughout. De-catted downpipe + resonator delete + muffler delete. **THIS IS NOT STREET LEGAL + YOU’LL SOUND LIKE A 4 CYLINDER TRACTOR** Not Recommended for daily unless you love drone and ringing ears.
